If you look at a map of Thiruvananthapuram, you will find roads, buildings, and landmarks. But if you look at the social map of the city – there are a few key places where people actually connect, laugh, and celebrate – one of them is the golden hill, “Kanakakkunnu.”
Perched gracefully between the Museum and Kowdiar, the Kanakakkunnu Palace and its sprawling grounds are like the Cultural Living Room of our city. It is where Trivandrum comes to watch art, eat good food, walk in the evenings, and celebrate being alive.
The History
The name says it all. Kanakakkunnu translates to “Golden Hill.” Built during the reign of Sree Moolam Thirunal in the early 20th century, this palace wasn’t meant to be the primary residence of the King. Instead, it served a more hospitable purpose: it was the Royal Guest House. It was here that the Travancore Kings entertained distinguished visitors and held grand banquets.
Even today, the architecture – with its red-tiled roofs, massive chandeliers, and colonial-meets-Kerala style – whispers stories of a regal past. But unlike many palaces that remain closed off, Kanakakkunnu opened its gates to the people.
The “Lifestyle” Hub
For the average Trivandrumite, Kanakakkunnu is a daily habit or an occasional hangout spot.
- The Evening Walkers: As the sun sets, the winding paths up the hill are filled with fitness enthusiasts and couples enjoying the cool breeze.
- The “Nishagandhi” Magic: The open-air auditorium, Nishagandhi, is legendary. There is something magical about watching a cultural performance or a concert under the stars, surrounded by lush greenery.
- The “Sooryakanthi” Fairgrounds: This is where the chaos happens – in the best way. From food festivals to flower shows, this lower ground usually transforms into the city’s marketplace of joy during events.
The Events That Define Us
Kanakakkunnu is the permanent venue for few of the city’s biggest celebrations. If there is a crowd in Trivandrum at these times, they are probably here.
1. The Onam Week Illuminations
If you haven’t seen Kanakakkunnu during Onam, you haven’t seen the Trivandrum Onam. The entire Palace, the trees, and the arches are draped in millions of LED lights. It turns the night into day. Families walk through this tunnel of light, eating ice cream and taking selfies. It is our collective annual ritual.
2. The Nishagandhi Dance & Music Festival
Usually held in January or February, this is a bucket-list event for art lovers in Trivandrum. Entry is free (a beautiful Trivandrum tradition), and you get to see Padma Vibhushan and Padma Shri awardees perform Odissi, Bharatanatyam, and Mohiniyattam on a world-class stage.
3. The Flower Show (Vasanthotsavam)
Usually kicking off the year, the Palace grounds transform into a riot of colors. Exotic orchids, massive rose gardens, and landscape art take over the hill. Walking through these grounds munching on snacks and going on a purchase streak at the stalls are traditions being followed by many. It’s the unofficial start of the spring season for locals.
4. Keraleeyam
In recent years, the massive Keraleeyam event has redefined the scale of celebrations here, turning the entire stretch from Kanakakkunnu to East Fort into a cultural corridor, with the Palace grounds hosting food melas that serve everything from Ramassery Idli to Vanasundari Chicken.
Whether you are there to watch a play or just sit on a bench eat a Bajji and watch the world go by – Kanakakkunnu reminds us that Trivandrum is a city that loves to celebrate art and nature together.
What is your favorite memory at Kanakakkunnu? Is it the Flower Show with your parents? Or a late-night concert at Nishagandhi? Let us know in the comments!
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